At the suggestion of a reader (as if I really need provocation to eat) I dropped by Lee’s Bakery for lunch today. The suggestion was that the bún at Lee’s was very “traditional” – which along with “authentic”, are my keywords for “go now”. (Keep in mind that “traditional” and “authentic” can be very scary places – and not always in the squid bladder/chicken butt sense. Sometimes it means wrapped in shiny Hello Kitty foil and dyed day-glo puke green…) I was not expecting scary – my worry was mediocre/bland (click to see my last post on Lee’s).
I shouldn’t have worried. I ordered bún thit nương (vermicelli with grilled pork). Far from bland, this was sublime, and not because of any one particular ingredient. The thit nương (grilled pork) is not particularly special here. The vegetables are not over pickled. The fish sauce is not overly pungent, or laced heavily with pepper flakes. The noodles are silky and thick.
And I think that’s the secret of all truly traditional foods – the ingredients don’t compete, they simply work together.
So, my confidence in Lee’s is returning – 2 out of 3 ain’t bad.
4005 Buford Hwy NE
Atlanta, GA 30345