Sliding southward out of the mountains, the big V-8 was sucking in sleet and freezing rain faster that gas. Turning off onto an unmarked side road, the sleet finally gave way to snow. The Benz had all it needed – a tank of high-test and cold, dense air. We, on the other hand, were hurting. We needed something to take the edge off – fat. Preferably something super-trans-modified and searingly hot…

So why were we now sitting in the snow, moaning over McDonalds? We were at our edge. The long day behind us had left us reeling. Because after six hours of refined food and more wine than I will typically see in 4 months (I lost count after 16), we needed something to remind us how special what we had experienced was.

Rob and Brent Beecham had graciously invited local food bloggers to a Food and Wine Conclave at their Montaluce Winery, hidden away somewhere outside of Dahlonega – hidden in the sense that I couldn’t find it. Which given that I was pretty sure I was mistakenly invited, I’m thinking the hidden part was intentional…

The stumbling for words began almost as soon as we turned onto the property – as in how the hell am I, who most definitely is not a wine guy, supposed to write about this? Well – I’ll keep it simple. The property, even covered in ice and fog – is beautiful. The winery, a massive Tuscan-style building that also holds Ristorante La Vigne, is impressive, inviting and best of all – comfortable. The people – friendly, warm (and I never use that word) and just truly nice – it’s not often that you meet people that really, sincerely seem happy with what they are doing. The food and wine speak for themselves.

The menu

Chicken Liver Mousse with house made pickles and lavosh

Smoked steelhead trout, boiled peanuts, fennel, Meyer lemon, sweet tea froth

Montaluce Risata, sangiovese rose

Coppa di testa, apple mostarda, cider braise cabbage, apple

Chicken thigh terrine, chicken oyster, cipollini onions, baby carrot, celery leaf

Butternut cup custard, maple gel, oat crumble, buttermilk espuma

Executive Chef Steven Hartman

Chicken livers

Tamis

Too many cameras

Ristorante La Vigne

Wine Bar

Charcuterie leads to celebrity

Winemaker Oliver Asberger

Winery

Montaluce Winery & Estates
501 Hightower Church Road
Dahlonega, GA 30533

Tuscan, obviously young and a bit too bright for my palate. Cooks better than it drinks.

Breckenridge Vanilla Porter, Victory Storm King Imperial Stout, Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout

I realized the other day, that I really don’t use my wine cooler for anything other than beer any more… There’s a bottle of champagne in there (Veuve Cliquot), but that’s it. Anyway, if you were curious as to what potables an ethnic food scout keeps on hand, I’d feel worried that you might have as few interesting things to do as I. But above is a sampling of staples at the BuHi household.

Personally, I’m not a huge fan of beer with food – before and/or after, but rarely with (occasionally a Tsing-Tao or Kirin with sushi). I’m sure there are many opinions to the contrary, but my penchant for high-gravity beers that are close to being a food in their own right, limits the pairing opportunities.

One postive aspect of keeping beers that many consider “drink proof” is that everyone always knows to bring their own when they come over…

What do you keep in your wine (beer) cooler? And what foods do you pair it with (especially ethnic)? Comment away…

Frozen Pork Dumplings (Wei-Chuan Brand). Definitely not as good as handmade, but they’ll do in a pinch and they’re under $4/bag.

I’ve never tried Caribbean Jenean’s on Piedmont in Atlanta (seemed a little scary – strange that, coming from me), but they recently updated their sign and now I have to go – “OXTAILS EVERY DAY!”. (Anybody tried this place yet? You can leave a comment you know…)

Finally, this is interesting - wonder if anyone is doing this in the states? (not like I have any bottles worth 4,000 pounds): Pawn Your Wine