So where to begin? It’s been a busy Spring (that’s me under the CAFE sign there) and I’ve had a hard time keeping up with the bloggin’. So here’s the quick rundown, complete with oversights and omissions and quite a few crappy phone pics….

Thiên Thanh

Clowns make me sad (and freak me out quite a bit). Now, unfortunately, Thiên Thanh (where the above clown now resides) makes me sad as well. I wrote about Thiên Thanh a while back and was excited about the promise this placed showed. No more. A. & I stopped in a few weeks ago for a quick lunch and were shocked to find that the Vietnamese menu (and my beloved bún mọc) had been replaced with “Cajun” seafood in an obvious attempt to follow in the footsteps of Crawfish Shack. Disappointed, we left and found solace elsewhere (Bo Bo Garden, across the parking lot). Feeling a little guilty, I returned for dinner recently with my buddy @TowerATL in tow. I feel bad saying it, but the best part of the meal was strategically choosing a table so that the Creepy Clown was looming over @TowerATL the entire time. The food wasn’t bad, it was just “sad” – mealy, damp crusts and off-flavors. I want my  bún mọc back…

Cafe Sinaloense

Tasty, competent pollo asado are what Sinaloense is all about. Unfortunately, I’m not sure if their location (in the old El Mustacho space next to Cafe Mozart) is a great one. The spot has been empty (or a scary biker bar) for so long that I’m not sure that it will capture attention…

El Rincon Latino

Tasty mojarra frita for dinner one night. Definitely going back for this – in my mind it’s every bit as good as the whole fried catfish Tom Catherall sprung on us years ago at Azalea, and that’s still making the rounds (Kaleidoscope in Brookhaven has it on their menu).

Loroco

Not really a revelation, but I was happy to stumble across a 2 lb. jar of loroco at Carniceria 3 Hermanos on Roswell road. El Rincon Latino (above) makes pupusas stuffed with cheese and loroco. Tasty.

Atlanta Food & Wine Festival

I was privileged to lead a tour of Buford Highway for the Atlanta Food & Wine Festival. As such, they let me run amok through the festival. I only took a few pics as I was too busy eating. Can’t wait for next year!

The Rathbun brothers cooking steaks (would have been quicker to throw them on the pavement – was about 900 million degrees out there…).

Kevin Ouzts of Spotted Trotter gave a fantastic presentation on charcuterie as well as a great sampling of his work.

Cooking

Yes, I’ve been cooking quite a bit recently. Still working on refining my pollo a la brasa recipe. Getting it right is a royal PITA.

And here’s the fishy ribs (brined in fish sauce & palm sugar). I really like this. A. can’t stand it…

Bibim Bowl

A. & I hit up Bibim Bowl for a quick dinner one evening. Not bad for fast food Korean.

The fried mandoo were tasty. Definitely worth a visit.

North Georgia Wine Country

Did a research trip up to North Georgia Wine Country for Atlanta Culinary Tours along with @FoodGodtess & @Suburbanwino. Beautiful, early Spring weather, too much wine and a stop for lunch at La Vigne (Montaluce Vineyards).

Cauliflower Soup

Smoked Trout

Barbecue Chicken Sandwich

Dessert – I’ve forgotten what it was, but I loved it…

Moon Pie with RC Cola Shooter

Another dessert I can’t remember…

Beer

I’ve also taken to drinking a lot of heavy, pricy beers lately…

This post was originally posted on Naked with: Cooking 2/1/2010. Am I being a tad lazy by reposting it here? You bet. But I kind of liked this post…

My kitchen kind of looks like this right now – only not really….
I’m moving into a new house soon and I find myself dreading one thing more than any other – packing my kitchen. Every time I move find myself putting it off until the last minute. I keep convincing myself that if I pack something too early – my world will collapse. I just know that in the next two weeks, in spite of my packing, errand running and collapsing on the sofa with a beer and fast food because I’m just too damn tired to cook – I will absolutely, definitely, with no doubt whatsoever need the ceramic-bladed truffle slicer that I haven’t used in the two years since I bought it. Never mind that I don’t have any truffles.

I used to think I must have some kind of disorder, but this seems to be a rather common problem. I’m thinking that it must have something to do with the kitchen defining a particular place as your home. There are plenty of places you can sleep at home – in the bedroom, on the sofa, in the backyard. When we travel, we sleep on planes, trains and in cars. We rent hotel rooms to sleep in – but we never think of them as home. (Sleep is an unconscious activity – as long as you feel safe, you can pretty much sleep anywhere.) But when it comes to our food – where we keep it, clean it, prepare it, even create with it – our kitchen and the things in it seem much more personal. The kitchen is usually our first destination after waking and the last before sleeping (I’m trying to keep the bathroom out of this – that’s for another blog). It’s where (as people with food problems) we have some great successes and disappointing failures, where we often take bigger risks than we will elsewhere in our lives. It can be the most public place in the house and the most private. I think I just need to accept that this place will no longer be home – time to pack. [image: Rick McGinnis | via BlogTO]

So you want to know how lazy I’ve become? I visited Heirloom Market BBQ for the first time a couple of weeks ago and took my time writing about it. Then one Tuesday morning I decided that I’ve become too lazy and I set about working on this post.

Not 10 minutes later, Gene over at the AJC posted on their Korean barbecue pork sandwich and I decided “eh”. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not Gene’s fault – it’s just when your enveloped in a shroud of ennui, it can get the better of you.

That being said, I can now get over myself. So – HX and I ventured out one evening and with only one misstep found our way to Heirloom Market. I won’t get into their backstory. Their website paints the picture. We decided to share the unfortunately monikered Texas Trinity – brisket, ribs and sausage (…you ain’t got no horns…). I’m not much of a brisket fan, but I’ll admit – this stuff could convert me. I’m not sure how they go about cooking it, but it seemed to me a combination of a braise and smoke. Don’t know, but it was moist and tender – very different than what I’ve had before.

Ribs were tasty, if a little dry – but I’m not blasting them on this. I’ve mentioned many a time before how hard it is to hold ribs at serving temp without them dying out. I’ll have a better idea after another visit (yes, I’m going back).

Sausage… HX wanted to try the Texas smoked sausage, and all I can say is that it struck me as an overcooked, oversized, too-smokey hot dog. Pick a different one…

This place is tiny – one communal table in the middle and some narrow ledges along the windows. It’s also a bit hard to find (look for the Akers Mill Food Store sign) - but do look for it. A fine addition to the local barbecue scene (don’t doubt me…).

Heirloom Market BBQ
2243 Akers Mill Rd.
Atlanta, GA 30339

I’m not sure who had more fun at the first Si Fang Cai (Secret Supper) – me or the guests. The menu was based (mostly) on Asian hawker food – or “street” food.

The weather cooperated, allowing for drinks and cooking outdoors, before moving inside for an intimate dinner peppered with great conversation.

Hawker Menu

Cocktail
Basil Watermelon Caiparinha *

1st Course
Bulgogi Wan-ja with Tamarind Ssamjang (Korea)
Butabara Kushiyaki – Shio & Tare (Japan)
Xinjiang Chuanr (China)

2nd Course
Dan Dan Mein (China)

3rd Course
Gado Gado (Indonesia)

4th Course
Gang Ga-ree (Thailand)

Dessert
Turon w/Macapuno Fozen Custard (Philippines)

Beverages
Cha Yen (Thailand)

Beer
Tsingtao (China)
Chang, Singha (Thailand)
Kingfisher (India)
Kierin (Japan)

* The basil-watermelon caipirinha is from No Recipes.

I’ve learned that the rule of thumb in ordering a Cuban sandwich us to ask the provenance of the bread used in the making of your sandwich. Even if you’re not entirely satisfied with the answer, this is your warning shot across the bow that they had better step up to the plate.

And so it went on my inaugural visit to Crazy Cuban. The bread is from Pan- American Bakery, according to the owner, but somewhere after this conversation something went off the rails. I ordered a Cuban sandwich. While taking the next customer’s order (who seemed to be a Cuban sandwich novice), I was asked what I thought about a Cuban with lettuce, tomato & jalapenos. “Not even close to acceptable,” was my reply.

So imagine my surprise to discover, upon opening my lunch, just this very thing… As I’d taken my sandwich to go, I really didn’t have much recourse beyond eating it. Now in its defense, it was a tasty sandwich – lots of léchon asado (roasted pork) & ham, and a strong taste of mojo criollo. But a Cuban sandwich, it was not. The bread was a little flakey, but the lettuce and tomato had rendered it soggy in the 5 minutes it took me to get from restaurant to where I was eating.

As it’s close to my office and affordable lunch options are limited, I will give them a chance to redeem themselves.

Crazy Cuban
290 14th Street
Atlanta, 30318
M-F 11AM – 3PM

[This post also appears on Naked with: Cooking]

Atlanta area food bloggers (actually, it doesn’t matter where you’re from) are invited to get together in a casual, informal environment, grab a bite to eat and get to know each other. Pretty much a similar deal to the last one, just a different location and I’m no longer using the words “Eat Up” (this was co-opted by someone else after our last event :< ). This isn’t limited to just food bloggers – we’ve got some devoted followers and food fanatics that hang out with us online and you’re welcome too.

Details are after the jump…

The What

Again, you’re invited to meet face to face, prove you exist in the physical world, grab some good food and get to know some of your compatriots.

The When

Wednesday, April 21, 2010
7PM – whenever

The Where

Doh! We have changed venue. It appears that Bamboo Grill is closed on Wednesdays (probably explains my inability to get a hold of them on Wednesday…). We’re going to invade Shoya Izakaya!

Shoya Japanese Restaurant
6035 Peachtree Road
Suite A-101
Doraville, GA 30360
http://www.shoyaatlanta.com

One of the great things about Shoya – it’s an izakaya, meaning we get to do some mid-week drinking!

How Do I Find You?

Because this is an informal gathering and I’m not holding your feet to the fire, I don’t make reservations – I’m just not sure who’ll show up. If you guys are all really good and confirm through the comments (and don’t back out at the last minute ;>), it will help. I’ll let management know we’re there and I’ll try to be there a little early – I look a little bit like the scary guy pictured over here or here. Just walk up and say “Hi”.

The Fine Print

The is an open social gathering. There is no planning, management or control. The meeting place is public – the environment is what it is. I’ll hearken back to a post I did a while ago to encourage people to meet for dinner (here). Back then I posted a few rules (some people told me they were pretty harsh), but they were intended to minimize the discomfort of meeting strangers in a strange environment. They don’t all apply here, and I’ve softened them for this “eat up” but some are common sense.

1. Have an open mind and be willing to explore. If you haven’t been to Shoya before (or you aren’t familiar with Japanese pub food), it may be a bit confusing/overwhelming. Don’t worry – the proprietors are friendly and some of us may be able to help – a bit.
2. Big one here – pay for your own food (BRING CASH!). I’m not providing food, etc. I’m just looking to meet people with some common ground! This event is Dutch. My previous rule was: “If you show up and forget to bring cash – you work it out with the owners/cops – I don’t know you.” You know, as a group we’d probably help you out, but don’t put your new friends in that position… BRING CASH! The restaurant accepts cards, but don’t make them run a bunch of small transactions. Just bring cash and make it easy on everyone.
3. Please no whining. If you like the place and the food (and I hope you do), great. Even better – write about it. If you hate it – enjoy the company and help me pick out a different place for the next one!

I hope to see some of you there! Ping me on Twitter (@EatBuHi) or leave a comment here if you think you can make it.

The second annual Latin American food festival, sponsored by the Georgia Hispanic Chamber of commerce will be held at Atlantic Station on May 1, 2010.

Participants include:

• Brazilian Bakery
• Costa Verde Peruvian Restaurant
• Coco Loco Cuban Restaurant
• Eclipse de Luna
• El Azteca
• Frontera Catering
• Lime Taqueria
• Los Andes Bakery
• Machu Picchu Peruvian Restaurant
• Raul’s Catering
• Sausage World
• El Toro Mexican Grill
• The Iberian Pig

There will be a People’s Choice Award for best dishes along with cooking demonstrations.

Degustar
Atlantic Station
Central Park
Saturday May 1, 2010
11:30 AM – 5:00 PM
Admission: $5.00

When I first moved to Atlanta (by way of Boston) in 1989, I remember trying the barbecue at Old Hickory House at their now defunct location on Piedmont Road in Midtown Atlanta. To say I was underwhelmed would be an understatement. The fact that I have not darkened their doorstep in 21 years attests to the impression they made.

Be that as it may, the lack of decent, cheap breakfast locations (notice I did not say barbecue locations) in the Dunwoody area drove me to give Old Hickory House another try. So on a rainy Sunday AM, HX and I ventured out to fend for a table at the Dunwoody location (down to two, the other is located in Tucker).

Despite the high blue-hair quotient, the service was friendly enough and relatively efficient (I say despite, because this is usually a key driver for long-winded, pointless conversations holding up the wait staff, along with overly complicated and indecisive orders. I’m not hatin’ on old folks – stereotypes exist for a reason).

Soon after ordering, substantial portions of country-fried steak and eggs, sugar-cured ham and biscuits made their way to our table. For the most part, the food was good and a pretty good deal (2 people, big breakfasts – about $10). The biscuits (huge) were disappointing – the interior was light and tasty, but the crust was thick and chewy – kind of a biscuit jerky.

Old Hickory House
5490 Chamblee Dunwoody Road
Dunwoody, GA 30338-4129

A. was born in Cuba. Recently, she mentioned one of her favorite dishes – Bacalao a la Vizcaiña – which I met with a blank stare and multiple requests to repeat it (I meet lots of things that way). I swear, I think Mandarin is easier than Spanish… – embarrassing, with my Spanish roots and all.

Curious, I set about figuring out what bacalao actually was. Salt cod it turns out. Bacalao a la Vizcaiña is a dish originally from the Basque Country of Spain, but that has variations all over the world, including Portugal Mexico and Cuba. Fully braced with this information (and this information only), I had to locate a source for bacalao (good to know lots of food people on Twitter). Turns out I’m probably the only person in Atlanta that didn’t know what bacalao was – embarrassing, with my Spanish roots and all.

A trip to BHFM procurred a pound of salt fish, which led me to the next task – finding a recipe. It appears that recipes for Bacalao a la Vizcaiña are like recipes for pot roast – everyone gets their recipe from their mother, and that recipe is supposed to be better than any other – even though they are nothing alike.

Some called for bell pepper, others pimento – which only added to the confusion. In Portuguese, “pimento” is the same as bell pepper, but since no one on the Internet knows how to spell, I didn’t know if they meant “pimento” or “pimiento”, which in Spanish is a cherry pepper (spicier)… Some recipes didn’t mention peppers at all. Some called for vinegar (important!), others did not. Some boiled the cod, others fried it. Some layered it with potatoes and baked the dish, others simmered the sauce on a stove top and served it with rice. All of the recipes used capers, but in varying amounts.

Oh, while we’re on the subject of no one on the Internet knowing how to spell, most of them don’t know how to write a recipe either. “Cook the fish” is not exactly frickin’ helpful as far as instructions go. But, as usual, I digress. One thing all of the recipes have in common (and which is really just common sense) is that you have to soak the fish in water – for a long time. 24 hours at least. Remember that salting is a form of preservation. The salt draws water from the fish and inhibits the growth of bacteria. The heavy salting renders the cod pretty much into a form of fish leather. The soaking (and occasional water changes) not only gets rid of most of the salt, but reconstitutes the fish as well.

After soaking, the bacalao actually resembles fish again, albeit a very firm fish – not at all like the tender, oily cod I prefer for fish and chips. (Note: I reserved the last change of water. The small amount of salt remaining and very slight fish flavor works well for cooking the potatoes.)

Frustrated and impatient, I decided to take what I decided were the best parts of several recipes hoping it would somehow approximate my A’s memory of the dish.

What follows is a blending of Mark Bittman’s recipe (bland) with a few additions and variations.

Bacalao a la Vizcaiña

• 1 pound salt cod
• 3 cloves minced garlic
• 1 large onion, diced
• 1 14oz can diced tomatoes
• 1 fresh tomato, diced
• 1 bell pepper (I used 1/2 red and 1/2 yellow)
• ~3/4 cup water (white wine will work better – I was out)
• 2 1/2 tablespoons capers
• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• Bay leaf
• Pinch of cayenne pepper
• Olive oil
• 1-1/2 lbs new potatoes, sliced

After soaking the cod, pick out any remaining bones and skin and cut into small pieces.  Heat  a heavy pan over medium-high heat and cover the bottom with olive oil. Dredge the fish in flour and fry about 5 minutes, until lightly browned. If frying in batches be careful about excess flour burning in the oil. I had to change the oil part way through… Set the fish aside and wipe out the pan.

Return the pan to medium heat and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add garlic and onion and cook, stirring, about 5 minutes, until garlic is soft. Add tomatoes, water (or wine), capers, bay, cayenne.

Bring the mixture to a steady simmer, add the cod and cook uncovered for about 45 minutes. Add water if the sauce gets too thick.  When the fish is tender, sprinkle with the red wine vinegar and season with salt and pepper as necessary.

While the fish is cooking, bring the reserved water to a boil (add more water if necessary) and add the potatoes. Cook 10-15 minutes, until potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife. One more note – keep an eye on the water when you’re bringing it to a boil – it may have a tendency to foam up and boil over (protein scum from the fish – I know, it sounds nice, right?). Just move the pot off the heat, and ladle out any foam – problem solved.

Serve over the potatoes.

So, was it “right”? It definitely wasn’t what A. expected from her mom, but it was pretty good. Most of the recipes suggested it was better the next day, and this definitely turned out to be true.