It may be old news by now (less than a month) but Frank Ma has re-opened in a new location on Briarcliff Road. Stopped in for lunch today, and while it’s obvious that the wait and kitchen staffs are still getting up to speed, all seems promising.
We tried two dishes: Three Cups Chicken (San Bei Ji) and Twice Cooked Pork (Hui Guo Ruo).
The Three Cups Chicken, while close in flavor to the version Frank proffered at Dinho, could use a bit of tweaking. While the bone in preparation is traditional, the chicken today was a bit anemic and the dish in general was a bit sloppy in prep – huge slabs of ginger, skimpy on the garlic cloves. It appeared that red chili paste was used instead of sliced chilies (I use serranos when I cook this dish – in restaurants I often see jalapenos). This isn’t a terrible thing, but fresh chilies do a bit of a – “green” edge to the flavor.
Twice Cooked Pork – the pork is typically boiled, then stir fried – was good, but the proportions of ingredients left something to be desired. The dish was light on pork, but the texture and flavor of the peppers, onions and cabbage made up for it.
So while it’s not completely dialed in yet, it’s exciting to know that Frank’s absence is over and we can look forward to his cuisine yet again.