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Pork Adobo – vinegary & fork-tender

I’ve always been a bit puzzled by the lack of Filipino restaurants in Atlanta. There is a Filipino community here, and the food, while unfamiliar to most Americans, is a delicious amalgam of Hispanic, Malaysian, Chinese and who knows what else.

With the arrival of Fil-Am Star Cafe & Bakery, Atlanta now has (unless I’m mistaken) exactly 1 (one) Filipino restaurant. And I’m glad to say (especially after my experience with the last short-lived attempt at the Hong Kong Supermarket food court) – this is a good one.

Sinigang – Sour tamarind broth

Our meal started with sinigang,  a sour broth flavored with tamarind. I’ve never liked this soup before – it’s always been too sour, even lemony (a shortcut maybe?). Fil-am’s version was dead on and addictive. I’m not much of a soup eater and I kept going back to the bowl.

The pork adobo was my real barometer. Far too often you’ll end up with overcooked, stringy meat and a pasty sauce with the texture of bad rendang. Our pork was fork-tender and moist with just a hint of vinegar – I would have preferred a bit more.

Fried chicken – adobo marinated chicken, deep fried

Fried chicken is a simple preparation – the chick is marinated in vinegar and garlic and fried. No breading. This can result in the chicken getting a little dry, but the sweet garlic dipping sauce makes up for any loss of moisture.

Guisado Monggo – mung bean stew with pork

This is comfort food for many – a simple stew of mung beans (monggo), meat (pork in this case), garlic, vegetables – whatever you may have on hand. Rich, thick and surprisingly tasty, just not my cup of tea. If you’re into lentils, you’ll really dig this.

Fil-Am Star Cafe & Bakery is located in the space formerly occupied by Saigon Cafe in Asian Square. They have a website, but they update their Facebook page regularly with specials, etc.

Fil-Am Star Cafe & Bakery
5150 Buford Highway NE
Suite A-170
Doraville, GA 30340

I’m not sure who had more fun at the first Si Fang Cai (Secret Supper) – me or the guests. The menu was based (mostly) on Asian hawker food – or “street” food.

The weather cooperated, allowing for drinks and cooking outdoors, before moving inside for an intimate dinner peppered with great conversation.

Hawker Menu

Cocktail
Basil Watermelon Caiparinha *

1st Course
Bulgogi Wan-ja with Tamarind Ssamjang (Korea)
Butabara Kushiyaki – Shio & Tare (Japan)
Xinjiang Chuanr (China)

2nd Course
Dan Dan Mein (China)

3rd Course
Gado Gado (Indonesia)

4th Course
Gang Ga-ree (Thailand)

Dessert
Turon w/Macapuno Fozen Custard (Philippines)

Beverages
Cha Yen (Thailand)

Beer
Tsingtao (China)
Chang, Singha (Thailand)
Kingfisher (India)
Kierin (Japan)

* The basil-watermelon caipirinha is from No Recipes.

For some reason completely beyond my comprehension, there are exactly 0 (zero) Filipino restaurants in Atlanta. Now if I’m mistaken, please correct me, but what’s up with this? I’ve heard rumors of a small market that serves lechón (roasted suckling pig) on the weekends, but I haven’t been able to confirm. This is a serious gap in the local food scene. Maybe it’s my Minorcan blood mixing with my love of Asian food but something just appeals to me about the blend of Spanish and Malay food. So in the meantime, whenever I get the craving I just have to cook it myself.

Adobo is the national dish of the Philippines, and as with most Asian dishes, there are infinite variations, but the most common are based on soy, vinegar, garlic, bay and black pepper. Here’s my recipe:

Chicken Adobo

1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 tbsp minced garlic
1/2 tsp black pepper
1 bay leaf
4 whole chicken legs (2-1/2 lbs), cut into legs and thighs (I just use thighs)

Stir together vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, bay & black pepper. Place chicken in a Ziploc bag and add marinade. Press out air and turn to coat the chicken. Marinate, chilled, for 2 hours, turning occasionally.

Prior to cooking, let stand at room temperature for 45 minutes.

Pre-heat oven to 425.

Place chicken, skin side up, in 1 layer in a baking pan & pour marinade over. Bake in middle of oven for 30-35 minutes. Transfer chicken, skin side up to a broiling pan. Pour marinade into small saucepan & skim fat.

Pre-heat broiler.

Broil chicken about 4″ from heat until skin is golden & crisp, 2-3 minutes. While chicken is broiling, bring marinade to boil & discard bay leaves. Serve chicken w/sauce and white rice.